Lente in zicht!

Nu het weer weer beter wordt hebben we allemaal zin om in onze kast te duiken en onze zomerse kleren aan te doen. Dit marine geïnspireerde retro ensemble is perfect voor die warme lentedagen. Combineer het met een simpele open cardigan om toch nog warm te blijven als het ‘s avonds wat frisser wordt.

 

 

 

 

Het speelse topje (Butterick 6217) heeft een origineel (en optioneel) knoopdetail dat je boezem positief doet uitkomen (hem hem). Als je het maakt uit een wit stofje is het een perfecte basic om onder al je broeken en rokken met een hoge taille te dragen. Maar in een bloemig stofje staat het ook fantastisch. De tulpmouwen geven het een speels en meisjesachtig tintje.

 

De short is een van mijn eigen patronen. Het is een nauwsluitende short met een matrozen sluiting die ontworpen is om de curve van je heup te accentueren. Samen met de brede tailleband (die je buikje lekker plat duwt) garandeert dat een flatterend silhouet. De zakken vooraan gaan over in de sluiting waardoor het geheel een minimalistische look krijgt. Voor deze versie maakte ik paspel knoopsgaten die het geheel een prachtig afgewerkte en geklede look geven.

 

Als je interesse hebt in de patronen voeg ik hieronder mijn besprekingen voor pattern review toe. (De meest uitgebreide en behulpzame babbelplaats voor engelstalige patroonliefhebbers.) De revieuw van mijn short is een beetje anders omdat ik die heb ingestuurd voor een naaiwedstrijd op datzelfde forum.

 

This marine inspired retro outfit is perfect for those warm spring days. Wear it with a simple cardigan to keep warm when evening falls.

 

The top features playfull and cute tulip sleaves and accentuates the bust with a beautifull knot detail. It’s perfect to be worn under high waisted skirts or pants.

 

 

The short is one of my own designs. It’s form fitting and designed to flatter any silhouet. The broad waistband takes care of the dreaded ‘tummy’ and the curved position of the buttons enhance (or affirm) the curve of your hips. The pockets are included in the closure with enables a sleek and minimalist sihouet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pattern Description:
This retro inspired top is very good at blending in to your contempory wardrobe, it’s just enough cute an just inough wearable to be the go to garment of next season.

 

Pattern Sizing:
4-12 and 12-20

 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
It did, but I had to make some alterations.

 

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions where easy enough even without any prior shirt making experience.

 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I think all of Gerties top patterns have the same problem; they don’t fit at the armholes. I’ve tried several of her patterns and had no problems with all the skirts, but everytime I try one of her tops the armholes ended up to small. Knowing this I already lowered the armscye with 1″ (adjusting te sleaves accordingly). I still felt like the fabric was digging into my armpits. This is the main reason I don’t wear this as ofthen as I should its not per se uncomfortable but I’m always afraid of sweat getting into the fabric. This is a shame since the blouse turned out pretty nice overall. It’s also unfortunate since lowering the armscye is not the easiest of alterations to do making this pattern unfit for unexpiriences seamstresses.

Overall I really like the shape of the sleaves and neck area. I’ve taken the waist in a bit further than the pattern suggests but that is mostly personal taste and makes tucking it in easyer. I really love this shirt but the armholes keep it in the closet most of the time (that and not wanting to wear it since it’s too pretty to spoil).

 

Fabric Used:
A medium weight cotton. Might have been a little to stiff for this pattern.

 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
As stated above: i’ve lowered the armscye by an inch and feel I should have probably taken it down 1 1/2 or even 2 inches.
I’ve taken it in at the waist for a more fitted silhouette.
I’ve attatched the buttonband facing differently since I think it looks neater.
I’ve also changed the direction of the buttonholes: it just seams weird to have horizontal buttonholes on a shirt to me.

 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I think I should sew it again since it’s a very nice silhouette and It doesn’t get nearly enough wear. Making it again should fix both of my problems: the armholes annoying me and it being to special to wear everyday.

 

Conclusion:
This pattern is really a really well done mix between retro and contemporary. It fits in almost any wardrobe and is super curte. If you make your own be sure to check the final measurements becouse there is a lot of design ease (pretty common in shirts) around the waist. I also reccommend to either make a muslin or to wait with cutting the sleaves untill you’ve checked that the armhole depth is ok for you. Otherwise this is a pretty quick and fun make and looks super cute for summer.

 

 

2016 Sewing Bee Round 1 – Shorts or Capris
Pattern or style used and how it fits the criteria:
I drafted my own pattern for sailor shorts. I’ve always wanted them and I’ve been looking for the perfect pattern for ages but never found it. This contest was the perfect excuse to get pattern drafting.
I used an old skinny jeans block for the overall fit of the pants I wanted. These shorts feature a double button up closure with bound buttonholes and hip pockets. I added a nice big interfaced curved waistband to get that smooth bellied look and I also think it really highlights the style. I really like how the line of the pockets continues into the closure, they compliment the female body.

Fabric Used-Material Content and Yardage:
I used a black and grey polyester woven from my stash. It features a tiny houndstooth pattern and I like the classic look it has with the bound buttonholes and the silver buttons. The fabric is medium weight but has a certain amount of body wich was perfect for the crisp design lines I had in mind. I used about 75 cms with I think is 3/4 of a yard. I also used 1/4 of a yard for the pocket fabric (contrasting red for fun) and about the same for interfacing of the waistband and the pocketfacings.

Describe your closure:
A double button up closure. I wanted to add the buttons into the pocket design so the edge of the pocket would continue up as one, uninterrupted line into the waistband. I drafted classic jean-hip pocket pieces but added an extra facing for the inside of the pocket since I wanted to make this look neat. I then decided where the buttons should go and realised I had to add a slit in the upper part of the pocket fabric to make sure everything functioned properly.

I made the bound buttonholes with the fashion fabric and interfaced the whole area in which they had to go. For the back I made windows in the pocket facing and in the other waistband piece and hand stiched everything in place.
Describe the other components you used (e.g. buttons, zippers, trim, pockets, contrast, etc):
I think pants without pockets are not very practical so I had to have some pockets. I love contrasting pocket fabric since it gives a little secret pop of colour only I know about. The pockets curve from the hipline to the line of the bustpoint to get a appealing look.
I chose for wide a blind hem since I wanted the stitches to be invisible but I thought the bulk of fabric would add a bit of texture to the garment.
I also hand stitched the waistband’s back to the shorts since I didnt want machine stiches to show on the right side of the fabric.

Describe the fitting technique(s) you used to achieve shaping:
I drafted this pattern from a self drafted jeans block which I fitted and perfected for a previous garment. After drafting in the design lines (using darts in the back and a very curved waistband) I checked fit by basting everything together and pinning the closure shut. I think this is necessary since every fabric sits differently and will change the fit even if the pattern fit perfectly before. Marking the changes I had to make I put everything back together for the final garment.
Describe what you like most about your entry:
I love the style, I finally have the shorts I’ve been looking for for a long time. The pockets feel really good and I like the novelty of them being inside the closure. They are classic shorts and I think I will get a lot of wear out of these and that is always the most important when sewing for yourself.

Describe your biggest challenge in sewing these shorts:
I had some difficulties with getting my head around how the pockets should work. My first attempt did not have a split and they did not open completely.
I’m also not overly fond of how much work bound buttonholes are. Especially in synthetic fabric since they are so hard to iron crisply.

What other information would you like to share about this project and your process?
I had a lot of fun designing, drawing and putting together these shorts. The experience I had with making jeans helped me greatly but I still feel I learned a lot in making these. I really like how these turned out and will love to wear them regularly next summer.